When measuring the action at the 12th fret, what is optional height? All notes going up the fretboard remain +20 sharp (on all strings). Thank you for responding. I'd miss it! You can always write a blues song about it. Yes - a good uke that one. I am convinced of the need to take the ukulele back to the shop to get them to adjust it. I have a set of gauged nut files and I get to work making sure your nut action is ideal (Figure 2). It was flawless, I still own it and adore it. Step 5 – Slide The Saddle Back Into Place and Tighten Strings The action at the ukulele saddle. LY ON EACH STROKE. HAve you changed the string? The setup of the ukulele should optimize playability and intonation. I used a fine line sharpie and the steel ruler that I’d measured the action with. That is, not to the top of the string.Please confirm? And thanks for the comment on the Kala PWC; it makes me feel better on my choice since I've been second guessing it for weeks now. The ebooks are aimed at all levels and all come with supporting MP3s and YouTube videos to help you learn. And secondary to that, is it difficult to remove the nut to file the underside? Please help if possible. I have a Kala KA-C (can't tell whether my saddle is removable, but it's whitish plastic and it's set into a wooden bridge so I suspect it is). I’d try end-tapping the saddle with a light hammer and a block of wood. In the end, I think that it’s going to be easier to file the underneath of the saddle, as described above, even if it means having to do it two or three times until the desired action is achieved. I was seduced by her tone, the wide fretboard and the feel of the tuning pegs. I too have felt that it may be the uke resonating. Be cautious. Could be a high fret further up. I’ll be honest with you Bob, I’ve never heard of anyone doing that and I can sort of see why. (Make certain all your strings are removed.) Thanks, Ah - did you comment on YouTube - just replied. The B b chord should not be an impossible chord for you. It’s time to get filing! LOOK THAT UP BEFORE YOU PROCEED. I've successfully used a bit of a credit card as an under-saddle shim to raise the action from just buzzing a bit to not buzzing. You might also get buzzing if the string moves even slightly in the groove you’ve cut. Even had defective strings out of brand new packets!! I thought this would make a nice visible guide and stop me from sanding off too much and ending up with a buzzing ukulele. I’m guessing it would be pretty tricky to match all the grooves up and there’s no real reason to do it. Could the problem be with the nut? Willing to purchase proper slot files or any other tools required. I think I picked a decent starter which will last me some time (Kala Pacific Walnut Concert), but it seems to need some adjustments. I put the sandpaper on a flat surface and then tried to hold the saddle with even pressure whilst I sanded it down. Should I go back to the shop and ask them if they will do the adjustment? Here’s how I did it…. If it needs raising you need to remove it and shim it underneath, or get a whole new nut cut and replace it. The problem is that the vast majority of ukuleles have nuts that are hard to remove in that way leaving you with the option of going down in the slots. I’m not telling others just to wing it, but it can be done by feel and eyeball. Tonight, I became tired of my Martin t1k uke just not feeling great and made lowered the saddle......what a difference. Dont really know what to do with it. Question for you - do you think the proper action depends on whether it's a Soprano, concert or tenor? It appears to me that the lowest non-buzzing action is somewhere down at 2.5mm but you are right, it's a question of how you pick the strings. This an old comment (more than 6 months old) I didn’t sand the bottom of the action , I filed each groove on the top of the action equally and it’s been working great ! hold side of saddle against the fence as your The string at the 1st fret is just one mm away from the fret. Understood a lot about the action of a ukulele from your post. Help with above question too. The thing is that it is very hard to press the first fret of any string, is this normal in every ukulele or can it be fixed ¿? The gap may need to increase slightly for a low g string. This is something I need to do. I filed the bottom of the saddle and notched the top. (I think its very very useful to have the written stuff PLUS the video!). On a plastic uke - they are usually not removeable I'm afraid - more a fun ukulele than a serious instrument. File the nut down carefully until it is. Again thanks, NUT. No issue doing one without the other. If I lower the saddle, will I be wrecking havoc on that good intonation? Not really something I wanted to get into recommending for beginner.The humidity of your home can change things but not all that much and certainly unlikely to go from a high action to a low one once it has settled. Ken Kelly, P.S. If the check with 3rd fret checks out ok, then it may simply be you getting used to strings (they are never 'easy' on fingers starting out) or you might want to try a low tension set of strings. I wouldn't melt it - think your only option is to sand it down - but obviously pretty much impossible to reverse if you go too far. And it did. The one that i have purchased has action of 3mm above the 12th fret but the 3rd string is buzzing. The saddle is stuck. Thanks for yr help Barry much appreciated! Pics attached but they’re kinda crappy. Measurement is from crown of fret to bottom of string. I've seen brand new ukes with defective strings. The buzzing is really cramping my zen thing. Doesn't really matter if it's a new uke - you need to rule out the strings first. It’s a 1962 Gibson Concert Ukulele (mahogany). I've got a plastic ukulele with the bridge to high so playing is very painful on fingers. (i don't have a google account or live journal or wordpress or anything so i file this anonymous). Ken Kelly. I’d try judiciously applied hot water. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I am new to the uke actually. Thanks! If anyone has any tips on keeping the saddle flat whilst sanding I’d love to hear them! Less power needed and no buzzing ! I dropped the action about 1/8″, and put on new strings. Many thanks. Why not file groves where each string touch the saddle ? Depending on the ukulele, we like to set the action at 2.5mm to 3.0mm in height. I bought my uke last week and found that when practicing I was often touching the C string when pressing the G string. If you have measured the action that the 12th and it is high I would wager that it will STAY high. If the strings are too high from the fretboard it will be difficult to play. Do not slot the saddle, sand the bottom only! Good description of lowering the action. I sanded the notches after filing. WORK SLOWLY AND DELIBERATE This was actually tougher than I expected.